Before we get straight to the point, let me ask you: “do you know the anatomy of engagement rings?”. If the answer is “no,” don’t worry, because I’m about to uncover some of the terminology used to refer to the main elements of any ring.
Head: This is where the stone rests and is often called the setting.
Shoulders: They support the ring’s head and refer to the shank section that leads to it.
Prong: This is a specific type of stone mount between 4 and six claws that hold the stone in place.
Profile: Think of this as a cross-section of the stem. For example, if you cut the ring’s shank, you may find that it is D-shaped or flat-edged.
By the way, you’ll also hear terms like “comfortable fit.” It indicates a ring profile designed to conform more naturally to the curves of the finger.
Now, let’s cut to the chase. Here are the main types of engagement rings:
- Straight hock
A straight ring is just as it sounds. The band of the ring is straight and does not reduce or split. This will likely be the first type of ring you make when you learn how to make rings due to its simple construction.
Straight tails are often sharp, meaning the rod’s edges have not been rounded. Instead, they are formed with a rectangular strip of metal, leaving you with flat sides around the band. When the edges of a ring are rounded, it adapts more naturally to the circumference of your finger. In other words, it is a comfortable fit.
- Tapered stem
We refer to “tapered shank when the band tapers into a thinner section. It can either be where the stone is set or in the opposite direction to where it is placed.
When the band tapers into a thinner section on both sides of the stone, it can make the stone look more massive and make the band itself much more delicate.
- Spinner ring
Spinner rings usually feature two bands wrapped around each other so that it looks like a two-band spun. Some of them feature some intricate texture depending on the event’s theme. For engagement events, high-quality spinner rings usually have interior artwork nuanced in love or the eternity of the relationship.
- Cathedral tail
A cathedral ring features two arches framing the stone in the center. In particular, this happens when the two ends of the rod are lifted to create these two arches just below the stone. It’s almost as if the two arches support the stone setting, mimicking the grand architecture of cathedrals and making the stone much more visible.
- Split Ring
The split ring structure is much more complex because the band splits in two before meeting the stone at the top of the band. It can give the illusion of two different pieces of jewelry and can be as subtle or as prominent as the client wishes.
The split shank design can also be changed so that as the band splits in two, it can cross over with a braided or twisted design until it ends up where the stone is set.
- Bypass ring
With a bypass ring shank, both ends of the band will not meet the stone evenly. Instead, each end of the band will spin around the stone, almost as if going around it. This creates the illusion that the tape is running down or covering the stone.
- Interlocking Ring
When the engagement ring and wedding band fit together perfectly, you talk about an interlocking ring. You can do it in many ways, and every jeweler has a different philosophy.
For example, some create the engagement ring to fit inside the wedding band; others make sure that the two bands follow the same silhouette to sit perfectly together when worn.
This is all there is to know about engagement rings. Now the choice is yours!
